Tokyo Fashion Week Spring 2016: Part 2

Tokyo's spring 2016 fashion week continues, with the middle two days bringing dark romanticism, Victorian influences, gorgeous draping, monotone simplicity, edgy menswear, and retro safari-inspired looks. Read on for more from the runways.

In-Process

Design duo Steven Hall and Yurika Ohara served up a charming retro safari inspired collection for the coming spring season. Classic 1960s silhouettes in the way of boxy shift dresses, short shorts, chunky chevron cardigans and cropped trousers were blended with square patch pockets and sporty cotton drawstring trench coats, giving the whole thing a Dr. Watson meets The Brady Bunch mood. The theme of exploration continued into the prints, with clashing zebra, watercolor and graphic patterns in earthy tones all vying for audience’s attention. It was a unified, tactile collection that is wearable, and will no doubt be a hit with those who love to experiment with oversized shapes and bold textiles. –Juliette Olah

Divka

Showing off a sophisticated collection of primarily draped pieces in sheer chiffon and relaxed jersey, designers Takayuki Tanaka and Motoyuki Matsumoto kept things carefree with billowy layers that merely kissed the body. Gliding along to an ambient soundtrack, models emerged through puffs of white smoke that splayed gracefully across the runway. The minimal grey-scale palette was accented with splashes of teal and marbled tie-dye, giving the range a tranquil, organic sensibility.

Divka presented a highly versatile collection, with more than a few contemporary little black dresses to choose from. Look no further if you need comfortable pieces that will create order and calm in your wardrobe. –Juliette Olah

Yoshio Kubo

Tokyo menswear designer Yoshio Kubo grabbed our attention with his spring collection by once again showing that men can in fact wear prints! The crowd pulsed to hip African drum beats as the models strutted out from behind a deep orange, hazy Saharan sunset, setting the tone for this nomadic journey. The modern vintage theme worked with the matching up of different classic patterns and the mixing of pastels and bold colors, for which the designer is known. Pants were not an afterthought in this collection, ranging from harem style to high waist to capri, all with a slightly sporty edge. It was casual cool and just right for today’s street scene. Kubo delivered a collection for men to achieve that stylish urban look for any day of the week. –Amanda Andrews

DressedUndressed

Designers Takeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato’s label is known for its clean lines, neutral colors, and monochromatic, painted patterns. Acting as a metaphor for the spring collection, a large white canvas rolled down the runway, reminiscent of an art easel. Simplistic styling and basic design mimicked the art direction of the production, however it was the minor details and characteristics of each garment that made the collection so noteworthy. These included unfinished hemlines on trench coats, exquisite textiles, and fine tuned tailoring. Kitazawa and Sato have undoubtedly mastered the silhouette and construction for androgynous clothing, debuting dual jumpsuits, collared shirts and sheer tank tops on both male and female models. Standing out against the monotonous colorways was a muted pattern resembling spray painted tiles, seen on blazers, jumpsuits and shorts. –Chanyn Kirtman

Dresscamp

Many designers showing at Japan Fashion Week fall into a simplistic, monotone, well-tailored, category that has become quintessential for women’s wear. However, designer Toshikazu Iwaya diverges from conformity and dives deep into peculiarity. Electric colors, decorative fabrics and extravagant patterns are just a few things seen on a Dresscamp runway. For Iwaya’s spring collection, the show commenced with dresses adorned with ruffles, floral motifs and high necklines resembling the Victorian era. Lace was used on a number of the pieces, layered over shiny fabric of the same hue. Sequins brightened up the collection as they were used as patches on denim, jackets and other garments. Tracksuits in various patterns were seen on the men, as well as striped sweater tunics and blazers. –Chanyn Kirtman

Hanae Mori Manuscrit

True to the brand’s ethos of designing “graceful, gorgeous and stylish” clothes for the everyday woman, Yu Amatsu delivered a contemporary collection with a little something for everyone. High necked, sheer chiffon and organza dresses featuring exaggerated pockets and feminine ruffles, played beautifully with the more structured yet sporty silhouettes of duster coats and bomber jackets.

The colour palette was pared back to whites, pale teal and dusty pink, with bolder colors thrown into a variety of digital prints for balance. The nod to fashion’s current obsession with all things 70s was also evident in relaxed off-the-shoulder tops, maxi-length dresses, and some interesting fringing detail that swung from tailored shirts, hemlines and dress armholes, adding personality to an otherwise clean collection. –Juliette Olah

Christian Dada

In the past Christian Dada designer Masanori Morikawa has showcased both women’s and menswear together on the runway, starting from last season he now separates the two, showing only women’s during Tokyo fashion week. The background that followed the colors of the sky from sunrise to starry night, as well as live music by a pianist, violinist and vocalist set a very romantic tone for the collection. Trademark Dada design elements were there, but in a toned-down manner that struck just the right balance with the ultra feminine pieces. Intricate gold embroidery, beautiful Japanese fabric selections, and Morikawa’s gothic-chic aesthetic were evident throughout. The dark monotone pieces felt lighter with the use of sheer pleating over mini skirts and unlined lace skirts in varying lengths. Twice, a sudden pop of red stood out amongst the dark glamour in an amazing leather rose bag that blew up Instagram immediately after the show. The leather jackets with peacock feather embroidery down the sleeves really stood out, and the final ballgown in a timeless oriental floral fabric left everyone feeling the love. –Amanda Andrews

For recaps of the shows that took place during the first two days of fashion week, click here.

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