Tokyo Fashion Week Fall 2015: Part 1
Tokyo fashion week is back, bringing with it a bevy of new trends that we can expect to see on the streets come autumn. The first two days of the week were packed full of a variety of styles and influences, from 70s peasant tops and preppy separates, to exquisitely textured knits and some very directional menswear. Read on for our recaps and reviews.
Sretsis
Tokyo fashion week kicked off with Thailand-based brand Sretsis. Creative director and Parsons School of Design alum Pim Sukhahuta has cultivated Sretsis into an internationally known label with celebrities such as Katy Perry, Zooey Deschanel, and Beyonce all rocking pieces from past collections. The quirky yet insanely girly line is growing at a progressive pace while maintaining its signature craft of exquisite detailing and subtle irony.
The Sretis fall 2015 collection was inspired by a “fantasy labyrinth.” Floral embroidered pieces and whimsical skirts and jackets in a wool-blend material were shown on a runway surrounded by flowers. There was also a 70s influence, which cheeky takes on peasant tops, and fringe detailed dresses paired with colored tights and platform shoes. Cigarette pants, bell bottoms, and ethereal maxi dresses were other nods to the era, while hand crocheted, fruit motif accessories, beret hats and hand muffs diverged from the theme yet remained in sync with the brand’s girlie eccentricity. –Chanyn Kirtman
Motohiro Tanji
This knitwear label was first established in 2012, after designer Motohiro Tanji studied at Bunka Fashion College, and then went on to study computer graphics at Keio University. There, Tanji explored contemporary fashion design using 3D geometric algorithms; he continued his passion for design at Nottingham Trent University in the UK, where he studied knitwear design.
Under a bevy of spotlights, black, nude and cobalt blue knitted dresses, sweaters and skirts commenced the show, each piece featuring unique textures and profiles. The dimensional detailing was both mesmerizing and flattering, making it visually appealing from all angles. Angular placement and structural hand-knitted details created organic silhouettes that were truly one of a kind. Especially exceptional was an oversized scarf, styled as a sweater and paired with knitted leggings. –Chanyn Kirtman
Takeo Kikuchi
This well-known Japanese brand is celebrating its 30th year and brings a high quality of craftsmanship thanks to Takeao Kikuchi’s industrial design background. The menswear brand prides itself on its modern glamour and sense of humor, and the show really did a great job of conveying this to the audience. It was also interesting to see a wide variety in age and look of models, some of whom were also part of the reggae band that performed. The message was that men of any age could have fun and feel power from this collection.
It was an urban but funky mix of vintage looks and contemporary street styling. There were both Jamaican and British inspirations throughout, and as the collection proceeded it referenced Jamaican immigrants finding their own street culture in London. The baggy suits were tailored with cutouts, some stand-out black brocade, and tweed fabrics mixed and matched in suits, pants, jackets and vests. There were also some sporty vintage track jackets and military pieces with a lot of attention to shoulder embellishments. –Amanda Andrews
Iiser Loen
Designer Koji Tezuka started off as a knitwear designer, and from that created Iiser Loen, still in its first year. His menswear collection hopes to create a “new age of dandyism” through timeless, chic designs. The tailored wool suit coats were the strongest pieces, with touches of leather for a more modern and interesting look. There were also basic sweaters presented that offered more mass appeal. An interesting detail in the styling was the textured sneakers in pops of bright color.
You can check out the brand’s latest pieces yourself in its newly opened flagship store in Omotesando. –Amanda Andrews
Ujoh
This womenswear brand was established in 2009 and exudes a feeling of comfort and ease. The layering effect was a central theme here. Mainly utilizing wool, quilted nylon fabrics, and wintry plaids, the designer pieced all layers together and brought interest to otherwise basic sweaters and collared shirts with asymmetrical cuts. The basic anorak was given dropped shoulders and bell sleeves, making it more feminine. There also was a relaxed pale gray jersey suit mixed in which felt very masculine and slightly out of place. The strongest pieces were the mixed media outerwear that showcased the layering of textiles. –Amanda Andrews
A Degree Fahrenheit
Even while designing a line for Hanae Mori, Yu Amatsu still finds time to maintain his own brand. This season drew inspiration from desert mirages, and was presented in monotones of black, grey and cream. The models were set against a stark black runway under spotlights. The designer used zippers not only as a functional means but also for design aesthetic, which worked well in most of these pieces. The collection started with a mix of men’s and women’s sweatshirts, jeans, and basic dresses. He mixed neoprene and leathers in a few separates that were interesting but bordered on shapeless. There was a stunning wide leg pant set with an oversized wool coat that was chic but comfortable and relaxed. A large amount of outerwear was presented, which ranged from fur hooded parkas, trenches in crisp whites, a fur overcoat, and a stunning final dress coat with a peak-a-boo back paired with again, those great wide leg pants. –Amanda Andrews
Patchy Cake Eater
Designer Shigeki Morino first launched his brand Patchy Cake Eater in 2012. Morino aims to emulate the masculine tailoring techniques used for women’s clothing, and reapply them back to menswear. Using premium materials, Patchy Cake Eater creates classic designs with a vintage edge and beautiful tailoring.
The Patchy Cake Eater runway show began with fitted, crinkled over coats made with multiple panels of plaid and electric colors. These were quickly followed by a series of leather moto jackets and pants in black and bright red. Retro-inspired pieces included silk-blend varsity jackets and precisely constructed three-piece suits, with cropped trousers and femininely cut double-breasted blazers. Clean lines and meticulous craftsmanship were present in a number of jackets. A sequence of oversized ponchos in large prints closed the show. –Chanyn Kirtman
Beautiful People
Already a commercial success in Japan, this brand once again showed that it has a knack for appealing to the masses. The styles presented were very carefree and preppy, with a hint of retro glam. The models were styled with soft beach curls, chunky shoes and leather bags. Some of the combinations of florals and crushed velvets took the retro inspiration to the full deal, while the plaid shift dress with leather details and fur infinity scarf added up better. Thanks to the presentation of many separates, it was easy to imagine the pieces sliding seamlessly into one’s own wardrobe. –Amanda Andrews
