Tokyo Fashion Week Fall 2014: Part 2
Days three and four of this season's Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo provided a series of inspirational shows, including Japanese kimonos and American wrap dresses.
Since his start at just 27 years old, Jotaro Saito has been one of Japan’s hippest kimono designers. Saito takes a modern design approach, with the hope of bringing kimonos back as an element of everyday fashion.
Set into motion by a live percussion performance, the “Power of Flower” theme to Saito’s fall collection was apparent with colorful floral motifs draped to perfection on models sporting two-toned hair. Contemporary adornments such as chain belts, sparkly obis, fur shawls and technicolor patterns were used tastefully, updating the kimono while still maintaining a traditional Japanese aesthetic.
In Process by Hall Ohara
London-based Steven Hall and Yurika Ohara first introduced their line In Process during London Fashion Week in 2006. The graduates from Central Saint Martin’s share enthusiasm for the unorthodox, and base their design approach on the concept of “capturing the energy of a garment that is in the process of being made.”
Inspired by surrealism and fantasy, the design team showed houndstooth and pastel zigzag patterns on pullovers and billowy blouses. Button-up shirts with plaid back paneling as well as knitwear with acorn and owl graphics were styled over wool skirts and leggings with sunset prints. Particularly wearable was a long sleeve shift dress with horizontal stripes and a linear floral design.
Nozomi Ishiguro Tambourine
Tambourine was started by Comme des Garçons alum Nozomi Ishiguro and has now been taken over by his wife, Fumica Goto. The line mixes contemporary and experimental pieces and is widely popular amongst its loyal followers in Harajuku.
The fall collection took an urban approach, showcasing a series of men’s and women’s tracksuits, drop-crotch sweats and trousers, and hooded sweatshirts with faux fur manes continuing all the way down the back. Also shown were sheer knit sweaters, and trench coats with houndstooth and plaid patchwork.
Diane von Furstenberg
Most seasons, the organizers of Tokyo fashion week invite a big-name overseas designer to stage a show here. This fall, American designer Diane von Furstenberg provided a grandiose production attracting celebrities, supermodels and every wrap dress in the city.
Naming her collection “Bohemian Wrapsody,” Furstenberg didn’t stray far from her design staple. Plunging necklines, gold jacquard and mauve floral prints were seen on variations of her ever-so-flattering wrap dress. Sheer blouses, fitted, floor-length skirts and printed jumpsuits complemented the series. Especially stunning were the jackets, such as a black and camel fur chubby and a long coat with striking embroidery.
After spending eight years working for a textile company, Hiromichi Ochiai started his own brand Facetasm in the spring of 2007. It was selected as the Mercedes Benz Presents Designer this season, for its innovative designs and wearability. It is labeled as one of the most important brands leading Tokyo fashion due to its rapid growth and popularity.
Well thought with attention to detail can describe Facetasm’s fall collection. Additions to traditional moto and varsity jackets were fringe ornamentations and leather lapels. Tops with intricate neckties for women and a combination of a blazer and topcoat for men showed the brand’s novel design aesthetic. Checkered patterns and soft yellow hues enhanced the primarily black, white and gray collection.
For recaps of the week’s previous shows, click here.