Tokyo Fashion Week Spring 2015: Part 1

By Chanyn Kirtman
October 15, 2014

The spring 2015 edition of Tokyo fashion week kicked off on Monday, with none other than the lovely Tilda Swinton sitting first row. From butterfly-print ball gowns to funky streetwear, the first two days brought with them plenty of highlights.


Hanae Mori Designed by Yu Amatsu

Yu Amatsu, who also designs his own brand called A Degree Fahrenheit, brings the same precision and expertise of pattern and form when designing a new line for famed haute couture brand Hanae Mori. Yearning to attract a “new generation” to the Hanae Mori label, the fashion house hired Amatsu to deliver the concept of grace, elegance and style to a younger audience.

Designing for a brand that is so rich in history in Japan is nothing less than nerve wrecking, however, Amatsu expressed to Savvy that he was so honored to work with the brand that his anxiety only surfaced after friends began singing his praises. Confident in his craft, he channeled his nervous energy into creating what he describes as a collection that will bring confidence and elegance to a new generation of women wearing Hanae Mori. The designer stayed true to the brand’s design icon, the butterfly, pulling inspiration from the chestnut tiger butterfly, a species that is most well known for its long migrations, traveling in large packs, and being tenacious.

The backdrop of the runway show matched the bright blue hues found in the butterfly’s wing. A slow melody of bells cued models wearing white dresses one could see on a modern day bride. Tiered and asymmetric hems were draped around body-con style gowns, and large ruffles and pleats surrounding the bodices. Butterfly silhouettes and emblems were used in various fabrications, shown on just a sleeve or an entire garment. Chiffon, floor-length dresses with leather finishes in hues of light stone and pewter also floated down the runway, followed by jumpsuits, pencil skirts and peplum tops in a bi-tonal, butterfly embroidered eyelet material. The collection also consisted of oversized knit sweaters, tailored suits, immaculately constructed trench coats, t-shirt dresses and crop top variations in many colors and fabrics. However the most notable of the entire show was the sequence of brightly patterned butterfly motif ensembles. An assortment of sportswear including button-up blouses, matching separates and dresses capped off the show with vivid hues of orange, yellow, black and blue.



Former classmates at the Bunka Fashion College, Hiroko Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi both previously worked for Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto as pattern makers. Together the duo left to work in London for Bora Aksu, and they launched Matohu when they returned to Japan in 2005.

The fashion week veterans presented their spring collection at the Laforet Museum Roppongi. The show began with a series of ivory and beige separates of tailored blazers, pleated skirts and button-up blouses in cotton, linen and a see-through, embroidered silk blend. The designers’ concept to keep the materials in their natural form was translated through a monotone and simple collection which still exuded a chic and classic style. Faded plaid patterns, denim and rich blue hues brought color to the collection, with a robe coat embroidered with feathers being a focal point of the series.



Dresscamp first made its debut back in 2002, and has since gained a reputation for its elaborate decorative details, designer collaborations and couture-classic techniques.

Dresscamp’s spring runway show surpassed its powerful status this season with bright red lips, fringe and a plethora of conceptual prints prancing down the runways. Exaggerated peplums and oversized shoulder details and sleeves were sported on the womenswear, while the men strutted the runway in fringe seamed pants, shimmery gold sports jackets and head-to-toe prints inspired by Bauhaus. Graffiti inspired textiles were seen on multiple looks for both men and women. Classic designs such as varsity jackets, empire waist dresses and t-shirts were given contemporary twists with abstract prints and over-the-top styling.